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Candice & Sandy

ah, the boat-people

San Francisco • Lahaina, Maui • Honolulu, Oahu • Pago Pago, American Samoa
Lautoka, Fiji • Auckland, New Zealand • Christchurch, New Zealand
Wellington, New Zealand • Sydney, Australia • Melbourne, Australia
Adelaide, Australia • Albany, Australia • Perth, Australia; Exmouth, Australia
Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia • Hong Kong • Shanghai, China • Halong Bay, Vietnam
Ho Chi Min City, Vietnam • Bangkok, Thailand • Ko Samui, Thailand • Singapore
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia • Phuket, Thailand • Cochin, India • Mumbai, India
Muscat, Oman • Dubai, United Arab Emirates • Salalah, Oman • Petra, Jordan • Cairo
Sharm El-Sheikh, Egypt • Athens, Greece • Rome, Italy • Southampton, England

Stand Fast, Secure the Rigging!

Captain's Log:
We are sailing into some monsoon winds in the South China Sea, according to the captain. The ship is a'rockin'. Swells at 4 meters, expected to reach 6 meters throughout the night. All the old people were advised to stay in their cabins, don't want any broken hips and what not.

Housekeeping note-I don't know when the next round of pictures will be. The next couple of ports we are visiting have some long busrides into the city centers. Therefore, once we are off the ship for the day, we are off until we set sail at night. So, I won't be hauling the mac around with me all day. It will at least be after Shanghi. We'll be in port for the next day, so if you want to check out the webcab, it won't be just the sea. But we are docking in a container/shipping yard, so I can't promise a great view. We are sailing out of Hong Kong at 3pm local time on Thursday (I think it will be 1am Central on Thursday) If you're up and about.

Until then...
crj
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Outwit, Outlast, Outplay


The original Survivor Season One was filmed on Borneo island. Not near where we were, but our visit provided some insight. I had my own immunity challenge in Kota Kinabula. Survive the Sunday Market, quite hard with my aforementioned social bubble. This market, aka tarps and tables setup on a street, was a sight to see, well smell really. It was so dang crowded and hot, I was about to have a melt down. All while trying to snag a good deal; I am Sandy's child. I had to keep moving, feel like I wasn't stuck. Had to keep looking back for Sandy, catch her eye and wait in my little one foot space. (Once back on board, the pool was stop number two, only after stop one for food. I completely dunked myself; fyi that never happens.)

We also passed the central market, mostly their open air food market. 99% of the food I couldn't even tell you what it was, no idea. But the smell, oh my the smell. So not only was I trying to figure out how I would use this food, but the real question was which one smelled so dang bad. I have never loved Wal-Mart so much and will now forever defend them against the anti-Wal-mart hippies. I would like to see them try shop in these markets. A day and two showers later, I was still catching wiffs of KK. I just couldn't shake it.

The residents of KK were all wearing jeans and polyester. I was melting away in the heat and my cotton skirt. I don't know how they did it. Plus the head scarfs, no thank you. 

It was all a sight to see. Very eye-opening. Mount Kinabula was off to our north. Nice view from the ship. The harbor was a very pretty turquoise color (look past all the trash in the water) with a couple of islands around. The island closest to the ship had a fishing village on stilts. 

Back on the ship...Started a new book today. The Host by Stephanie Meyer. No Cullens or vampires, but still very good, can't put it down. These cocktail parties have confirmed that I am a lightweight. After two cocktails, and of course "second drink," I felt like the toy punching bags with the weight at the bottom. Dinner was interesting. I think Cunard is using better alcohol than Tunica.

Hong Kong is just around the corner. I've got my wallet out and ready to spend. Going to see Stanley market and Temple Street night market. This is where my luggage space disappears. My navigation skills are ready to be put to the test. I didn't get the nickname "Nav" for no reason.

crj
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KK was just Okay


After sailing four days from Exmouth and hitting Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia on the island of Borneo, we hit civilization.  KK had modern buildings, high rises, new automobiles and a water front view but we spent most of our time in the street markets shopping and hanging out in the local Sunday markets.  They were selling everything from hamsters to dogs, purses to jewelry, shoes to belts amongst the mean heat in the street with the occasional popped tent for shade.  In the Caribbean the stores keep their doors open with air conditioning running to entice you to step into their shops for a look.  In the street market you were enticed to step up to the vendors table just for some shade!  I thought I was going to lose Candice there for a while.  I knew it was hot but I was dealing with it.  She kept giving me warning signs that her fuse was about to blow.  Too many people crammed in a small space, too hot and no personal bubble around Candice makes for a tricky shopping experience.  Thank God there was a breeze blowing that day but you had to get on the outskirts of the market to feel it.  i believe it's the only thing that saved Candice.

After the street markets we walked over to the Atkinson Clock Tower which is one of only three buildings that was left standing in the area after WWII bombings.  It was built in 1902, is all wood and contains no nails.  Across the way was Signal Hill Observatory and that was about as close as we were going to get to it since the heat changed our minds about walking over to it.  

We headed down to the waterfront next and saw the classic old fishing boats by the dock and even though the water was an emerald green there was trash and debris floating around.  We were warned by Nan and Betty not to go swimming, so the ride out to the beach was a no-go after seeing that - no toe test needed here!
Along the waterfront was a fish market which seemed to be over by the time we got there and an open air market which still seemed to be humming.  Forget trying to identify any labels in the stores, they are non existent for the most part except the bottled goods.  I'm thinking we'd all whittle away to nothing under these conditions because the smells you get while shopping are not appetizing at all and it makes you look at everything as suspect.

After shopping at a high-end mall in downtown, we headed back to the ship for a late lunch.  Once back on the ship I couldn't find the strength to get back out in the heat so that was the end of this excursion ashore for me and I hit the pool.  Candice ran back into town to make a quick purchase since we ran out of ringgits (dollars).

I didn't get to a few things that were on my 'to do' list, like the headhunter village in the Sabah Museum (47 heads) and the hanging 72 sided tower, because they were on the outskirts of the city.  But after hearing of the harrowing taxi boat ride that Nora and Morgan took over to Marine National Park it didn't seem worth trying to venture outside the city center.  Nora and Morgan agreed to a 25 ringgits ($1 = 3 ringgits) ride over to the park.  When they got there (short ride over) he wanted 25 ringgits a piece.  They were dropped off in some shaddy place and the guy was going to leave them, so they said they wanted to go back and when they got back he wanted 100 ringgits.  Nora said they paid him 20 and walked away but they did still have their liver and kidneys, so things were fine.  Later they tried to get the 'real' ferry over to the 5-island park.

KK has a lot of Muslims, then Hindu and Buddhist with only 8% Catholic and as we started traveling into the city I saw their flag which looked like Pakistan's.  There for a brief moment THAT is where you thought you were after catching a glimpse of the people.  Later while back on the ship, we heard a call to prayer......which made me start praying!  Ha, ha.  That was a sign of things to come later on in our trip!

After realizing that we didn't cover KK they way we had hoped to, we doubled up on our next two ports, Hong Kong and Shanghai, and Candice hit the travel books in the library and we compared notes.  We're in Hong Kong for two days and we are excited about this next port.  We have a lot of ground to cover but I believe we can do it justice and get it all packed in.  We plan on being first off the ship and not back on board until the wee, wee hours.  Then we'll be back at it the next day before we sail on to Shanghai in the evening.  The only saving grace in Hong Kong will be their transportation system.  It is extensive and cheap!  It was designed to move large masses of people around in the most efficient manner, and Lord knows we'll have to be moving fast!

Sandy        
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Farewell to the Southern Hemisphere


Well, I'm sitting here in my formal clothes typing this little ditty. Have a cocktail party to attend, due to us becoming Gold Card members onboard. We had gone down to see about our internet perks that come along with said status upgrade. Tobias said we were just silver, because "Silver comes before gold." Sandy, "Is that how that works?" But he looked up our accounts, gold cards granted. Moving on up the social ladder.

New found foods: Onion rings, room service fajitas and room service dessert. Harking back to my summer of the great onion ring search, I have stumbled upon a second place winner here on Queen Victoria. It was unable to beat the DQ rings. Room service is a hidden little gem, too. There is a dessert called a frozen chocolate bombe. It has become a standard in cabin 4110.

The other night at dinner Betty asked me about "You, Americans, like all that..." pointing to all our salads. I don't know if it was a generational thing, because our other Aussies ate salads. I agreed with her that we Americans all liked salads, when actually we the majority of us really enjoy fast food. Granted that I am usually just a meat and potatoes kind of girl, I'll eat a salad if you put it in front of me. They seem to taste better when someone else makes them anyway.

Its official, we packed too much. Probably could have made it with half of what we brought. The ride into London and the airport with all our acquired junk will be a trip.

The library onboard has been good to me. I've reread the first four years of the Harry Potter series. The books are all the British versions though, got to read the philosopher's stone. Kind of weird without the illustrations and the font used for the chapter titles. It's the small things that you don't notice until they're gone. Also, they don't use periods when writing people's titles, as in Mr Weasley. Being around all these British people and their crazy food has expanded my reading experience, too. As in breakfast of kippers (fish) and Yorkshire pudding (which isn't a pudding at all). Being muggle (non-magic folk) isn't the issue, it was being American. I have also added a bit of British lingo (ie: rubbish, loads and others) into my vernacular, with all the reading of HP and the British guests.

Saw dolphins today along the ship. We were reading in the comfy, cushioned deck chairs below our window. They all just popped up, usually just their fins, but one jumped all the way out of the water. We were going along the Longbok (spelling) channel between the islands of Indonesia on our way north. So we also got to see land today. Last day in the southern hemisphere tomorrow. Another pollywog day, but we get to be spectators this time.

Drinks and dinner are calling, until next time...

crj
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Exmouth - The End of the World


Since Nancy and Betty, our dinner companions, told us Exmouth was the end of the world, we were surprised to find that it was a little better than that.  They were coming off the tender to go on a tour when we were heading back to the ship for lunch and I greeted them with a "Welcome to the end of the world ladies!"  They got a good kick out of that.  The area around the Indian Ocean by Exmouth in the early 1900's was a commercial fishing port for mother of pearl until WWII when oil was discovered nearby and it was used for Allied military use.    Later in 1962 (good year) is was used as a satellite communication center manned by the US and Australian governments.

So the place had quite a bit of history and it was built up more than we expected but not by much.  My favorite gas station/convience store was called The Thirsty Camel.  Seems the rich folks from Perth are using this place as their winter homes.  Just a lot cost $359,000 down by the bay where the newest development is going on.  Real estate prices are always interesting and the whole of Australia seems to be quite high compared to the states but after talking with a man from Broome on the ferry the other day from Rottnest, i can see why they can afford these prices.  He told me that they are running out of workers for the mines so they pay them $150,000 a year, they work two weeks on and two weeks off and are provided their homes at the work site and get their travel paid back and forth to their permanent residence.  A couple of years of that and you could retire!

It was quite the process getting off the boat and in to town.  First a tender off our anchored ship, then waiting for a bus in the heat to be driven into town.  Although they did have a rather large tent with chairs and as always orange juice and water on tap while waiting.  We heard they had to hire out the buses for the transfers from over 600 km away.  It is pretty remote out in Exmouth but they did have internet at two different places, a Budget rental car location (Joe and Lee rented the last car and told us that the air conditioning was broken and the headlights were hanging on by duct tape, not to mention all the dents from the kangaroos, ha, ha)  and two IGA stores, one express and one regular, but only about 50 yards away from each other in the main shopping area of town.  The difference in prices between the two was sizable.  A half liter of Coke was $4.00 in the express store but only $2.49 at the regular store.  Guess where we tried to spend the last of our Australian dollars!  The little town had about 30 different shops.

After going back to the ship for some lunch and heat relief, we ventured back in to town.  The original plan was to rent a snorkel and mask and head out to the beach which is ringed with a coral reef all the way around Exmouth and the surrounding area but first we had to go get some pictures of the wild emus we saw early and possibly a kangaroo or two.  We got the directions to the beach and headed out through the streets to the back of a park and then off the beaten path.  We saw quite a bit of emu poop but no emus until we got back by the golf course, which was so barren, dry, and brown that you would never even entertain the thought of swing a club in that heat.  There were two emus and as they saw us across the field, they started walking slowly towards as we called them.  We had been warned to be very careful around them and that they move really fast when they want.  I put our bag of potato chips down on the ground to take a picture and they started coming closer.  Candice took over the camera job and I wanted to open up the bag of chips and feed them but Candice played the parent and wouldn't let me do it.  You know me, I'm the gambler, I wanted to try and feed them - not by hand - but on second thought I wouldn't want to be featured in the headlines of the local newspaper, if you know what I mean!

We finally crested the hills of the sand dunes and viola, the refreshing beach below.  It stretched for miles and it was all ours with the exception of one couple that arrived right before us.  After a swim and a snack, we decided not to walk back into town but to walk all the way back to the ship via the beach.  We stopped twice more for some refreshing dunks in the ocean and ended the day up down on the bay beach close to the pier.  Along the way a couple of dogs came and frolicked in the water and we got the occasion 4x4 driving along the beach.  I found the spine of a large shell with a round flat paddle on the end that was pretty neat and it fit my hand perfectly like a spoon.  So I decided to keep it as a souvenir. 

Towards the end of the day it cooled off somewhat but it was a dry heat and not a sweltering one like Arkansas.  So all in all the end of the world wasn't half bad - at least for a day!

Final Notes:  

Seems the American vs. British laundry story has gone viral on the ship.  Rumor has it that the British man and his wife kept up their antics and were kicked off the ship!

I think we've got a three bagger going on here - rogue waves, earthquakes and now the pirates are at it again.  Oh, did I mention the turmoil in Greece?  Things are gonna get dodgy!   Alex, the jewelry store manager, told us that he was on a ship about two thirds our size and the captain had to pull a maneuver to outrun some pirates.  He tipped the ship violently to one side and when it came back down the wake knocked them out on the opposite side.  Our table decided we would like some excitement and maybe Cunard can just 'stage' something for us! 


Sandy
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Rotto

The Basin

Longreach Bay

Quokka, the island "rat"

Bikes coming back from Rotto
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Glenelg and Albany

Jim and Dwight out at the beach

Glenelg tram stop at the beach

Beach next to the Natural Bridge (it was neat, but this was a better picture)

Salmon Holes

Freak Waves, ahhh!

On top of Stoney Hill, 360 degree views

Frenchman's Bay
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Aussi Aussi Aussi, Oi Oi Oi!

Our award winning photographer

Shine of Remembrance Melbourne 

My kind of pigs, dumpster diving!

The swanky dinner

More swank

Inside looking out to the redcarpet and native dancers

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Freo & Rotto

We know we are behind in posting pictures but we have good excuses. We had to be back on the ship at 1:30 p.m. while in Albany, early departure of 2 p.m., so we didn't have a chance to do anything but our tour/sightseeing. On Fremantle we took a ferry over to Rattnest Island and that story is below. We hope to get some internet time in Exmouth tomorrow for downloading pictures. Betty and Nancy, who are from Australia, tell us that Exmouth is the End of the World and very hot. We also understand there are only 2,400 people who live there. I'm thinking they have to have internet and cable, what else would they do for entertainment?????

There are a couple of saved up post following this one.


Update on comments:

Charlie T. - It was cold on the Alpine Jet Boat ride but we did get used to it. The double hats were more of a 'keep the hair back and out of the camera lens than anything else. BUT the water melting off the Alpine Mountains, overcast conditions and the wind at 50 m.p.h. is nothing to sneeze at.

Amy G. - We did get your second post, so it looks like you got it figured out. Julius sounds like he is all business protecting your humble abode out there in the countryside. Wait until the critters started to charge back towards him, he'll be back on the porch than you can count to 1.

Chris - We wish you were here with us too. We have not run into anyone that has done a world cruise before except one lady who travels all the time. She already has her next two trips planned for 2010. Don't know what she does for funds but I'd like to find out!


Fremantle

Yesterday we were in Fremantle (Freo as the natives refer to it) and went to Rottnest Island (Rotto). We were late getting into port due to strong headwinds so we missed both the 9:30 and 10:00 am ferries over to Rottnest but we did get tickets for the 11:30 a.m. out and 4:00 p.m. return. Prior to catching the ferry, we walked over to the Round House, which is a twelve sided building constructed back in the early 1800's. This is the oldest building in Fremantle and it once served as the prison. You know you always have to go se how the prisoners lived - cramped, but on a brighter note they did get their own cell! There was a wedding taking place there that morning. Very unusual for a Sunday morning, I thought, but maybe a very appropriate venue - you know the prison theme!?! They also had a mechanism that marked the time at 1:00 p.m. everyday by dropping a ball from the high mast atop the hill and simultaneously shot a cannon out in the water. In 1937 radio transmission replaced this method but I think I'd like to see the cannonball trick one more time.

Rottonest island was named after an animal that looks like a rat but it's really a Quokka. The island was overrun with them before tourist started coming out. Today there are still quite a few and they are pretty large rat-looking creatures but cute enough to take a few pictures of them. There are no cars allowed on this island, only service vehicles like garbage trucks and buses. The island has 63 beaches and 20 bays and is very 'glossy travel magazine' worthy! This is the playground for all those who own boats in Fremantle and Perth. Every bay we came across had about a hundred boats all anchored and facing in the same direction, some huge, some small but most about medium size. They made for some nice pictures with the beaches in the background. We went to Basin Beach first. It had a rock shelf that was carved out in a circular teardrop formation just under the water and beyond the front of the beach that then dropped about 3 - 5' into some dark emerald green water. THIS was our kind of beach. After a while we walked up the road to find Parakeet Beach and Small Parakeet Beach. Along the way we bought lunch, coke and potato chips, which we saved until we got to the beach.

We walked for quite a bit through the picturesque roads and only had to dodge the biker riders. Everyone, kids/grandparents, were on bikes, which was the only transportation other than one local bus that looped the entire island. There were small little vacation homes to rent ringing the entire island and in some ways it reminded you of being at summer camp but with really good beaches! When we were waiting for the ferry we noticed big luggage bins filled to the brim and ready for transport over to the island. Once on the island we discovered what this was all about. All the visitors coming and going from the vacation rentals put their luggage right out on the road for pick up (I guess you can't ride a bike too well if you try and hold all your luggage). Very trusting and it was refreshing to take a step back in time where everyone respected other people's property. Kids the age of 3 were out riding their bikes all by themselves and groups of kids traveling together with no adult supervision. Very safe place, kid and family friendly and I'll bet no crime to speak of, although we did see signs posted telling you to lock up your bikes or lose them. So, maybe living with a bicycle theft every once in a while is not so bad!

The road started getting too long and hot so we gave up looking for Parakeet Beach and walked back to the last bay we saw for lunch. After refueling, we decided to head right back to Basin Beach and hung out there until it was time to go. It was so pretty and the water was just a little chilly to take the heat off that we kind of lost track of time and were five minutes late getting started back to the center of town than we had planned. The ferry left at 4 and we were suppose to be there at quarter til the hour and we noticed it was 3:26 when we went to shower and get the sand off of our feet. Time to forget the shower. We only washed our feet off in order not to get any blisters and hoofed it back to town. We were sweating in more ways than one since this was the last boat off the island for the day. We did make it back in time but Candice thought I'd be able to sweet talk one of those boat owners for a ride back - let's not press our luck (but I wouldn't have been shy in asking).

All in all I'd recommend Rottnest Island for anyone who wants to get away from it all, take a step back in time to more simpler way of life, and has time to enjoy all 63 beaches! We rate this island a 5-Star - rats or no rats!

Sandy
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Out & About in Albany


We took a private tour today in Albany with a couple from Perth, Australia who we met in the Lion's Pub playing trivia a couple of nights ago. David our tour guide was a real "Man vs. Wild" kind of guy. He knew everything about everything. He even takes people on eco-tours and wine tours but today it was the rocky jagged coastline right outside of Albany.


We drove all the way around the harbor to Torndirrup National Park. Once inside the park area we drove out to The Gap, a huge open ended rectangular block of granite rock that the ocean waves come crashing up into. In the same area there was a natural bridge which also had waves crashing underneath it and popping up on the rocky beach below. We walked down the granite rocks to the edge for some wonderful shots of the beach across the way and the crashing waves against the rocks strewn all along the shore. It reminded us a lot of New Zealand.


Next stop was Stoney Hill Lookout and Salmon Holes. Saw some snakes and a monitor (sp?) lizard at Stoney Hill . David gave us a quick education on the surrounding vegetation and the history of the area. Great waves for surfing on Salmon Holes if you brought the board and they even had a sign warning you about 'freak' waves coming up on the beach - tsunami or no tsunami! We were positioned about 50' above the beach, so we had a great vantage point but the wind was very strong, especially at these higher elevation. David warned us not to wear a hat unless it was secured. He said it was too dangerous to try and retrieve anything and he said every year they have a loss of life because the wind knocks people over the cliffs and down to the rocky beaches below. Not a pretty thought when you have wind gusts pushing you around on top. During the month of February the winds kick up from Antarctica and there is nothing to break them before they hit Australia. The winds were so strong the other day when we were in Melbourne that I actually started to think that the glass surrounding the back pool where we were eating a late lunch was going to shatter. All the deck chairs and tables started moving and jumping. We thought it was funny until a table attacked us and the crew members looked a little anxious! You should have heard the roar! It was just a tad bit scary hearing this ghostly wind whipping all around the ship but you couldn't see it.


We then headed down to Frenchman's Bay where the explorer Vancouver landed in 1791 for a walk on the beach out to the natural fresh water spring which served him and his crew after they landed. This site later became a Norwegian whaling station and Albany just recently stopped all whaling operations in 1978. There was a converted whaling operation that changed over to a museum after whaling was outlawed. The large round silo where they stored the whale blubber was turned into a movie theater - talk about your sticky floors, ha, ha!


We were then dropped off back in town for a little walking and touring on our own. We visited St. John's Anglican Church which was built in 1846. We did a little bit of wine tasting at Alkoomi's and we thought for sure we would see Lee and Joe, our new dinner table folks from UT. Lee loves her wine at dinner and is always looking for the latest wine tour off the ship. Seems the elderly ladies, Betty and Nancy, bought some wine today and Lee told them she bought a corkscrew because the ship charges a $15 corkage fee. Said she'd open their wine for them for free (what a great dinner companion). Speaking of Betty and Nancy, they were late getting back on the ship in Adelaide. Betty had some friends pick them up for the day and they got caught in all the hoop-la traffic close to the pier. I asked them how late they were and they said 20 minutes, so it looks like you do have a small window but ever so small and not worth chancing it.


We walked over to the Patrick Taylor Cottage which is the oldest home site in Western Australia. I think it dates back to 1832. Funny thing was Candice had walked on ahead of me and I was taking some pictures outside so when I rounded the corner to enter the house I didn't see Candice so I went on into the house. I never saw Candice in the house and there was no back door so she couldn't have exited without going past me. I took a few pictures and came out looking for her. There she was sitting on a bench under a tree. I asked her were she went. She told me that it cost $2 to enter the house. I said 'What?" She said "Didn't you see the sign?" "What sign?" "On the door." "NO." Oh well, I guess the guy at the front door just thought I was on a tour, or it could have been that crossword puzzle he was doing. Ha, ha. You know, I don't really like to do any unnecessary reading!


Albany was another maiden port and the media showed up for footage. Candice was on the gangway and they wanted her to wave with the other people, so if catch Albany news channels be on the lookout for her. We went to an IGA store and stocked up on Coke for Candice. We saw this other young guy who's also on the world cruise bringing back a whole case of beer. He told us that he had plenty for everyone on the bus, dockside, if they wouldn't let him back on with it. Once again not too much food to recognize except Oreo's, Coke, Pringles and Doritos (but no ranch flavor). I think I'd loss weight outside the US. And the prices were much higher! Of course the Australian government includes their taxes within the price of the merchandise instead of at the register but based on our $11.45 purchase for a ten pack of soda and small bag of chips, the tax was only $1.03. So prices are high! We discovered just how much we love and appreciate Walmart and this made us just a little homesick!!!:) I think we might be having Walmart withdraws.




Sandy

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Laundry Anyone?


I'm beginning to enjoy the launderette more and more! It seems to be the hot spot in more ways than one! First of all, I think I've only been down there four times, so don't think I'm spending all my time there, but every venture has been more productive than I thought possible. A couple of days before we had reached Sydney, I had come in from the pool and decided that I'd go check to see if a couple of washers were free before I jumped in the shower. As luck would have it, there was one lid open which meant that I had to hustle back to the room, sort the darks from the whites real quick and scamper back down the long hall without knocking over any old people before anyone else showed up for a quick wash. Yes, I made it!


I stuck around to make sure the washer filled up to the appropriate level and started it's thing. While hanging around waiting, this lady who lives in Sydney was giving this couple some advice on the beaches and the surrounding area. She even ran back to her to room to grab a map and pointed out all the spots she was telling them about. Well, I'm over there taking mental notes, glancing at the map and hoping that I can remember everything she is saying so I can size it up to my homework that I did before the trip. Well my curiosity got the best of me and I no longer was just an observer, I had to pose a couple of questions myself. She was so eager to help all us 'virgin' Sydney travelers. Well just then I realized I had my hand on a washer with the lid down but no vibration. I opened it to peer in and viola, empty! I hated to leave the conversation but this was my chance to get a second load going. On my mad dash back to the room I met Candice coming in and real fast I told her that I got some info on Sydney and Manly Beach from the laundry room but first I had to get back down there with our second load. She laughed as I dashed out the door. I got back down there just in time for the second of only three washers and went back to the room and laid out the goods on Manly Beach for her.


Then tonight, while everyone was at dinner, we went down to run a load of darks and I struck up a conversation with a couple from Australia. They had been to Hong Kong before this trip so they gave us a pretty good scoop on what we should do, what we should see and where we should go to shop. Very useful information. We always meet the nicest people in there and it's amazing how much you can learn about someone in just ten minutes. Needless to say I just can't get enough from that little party hole called the launderette! Oh, by the way, being able to go out on the side deck with the cushy lounge chairs, read a little Glen Beck and watch the sunset between the wash and dry cycle is a pure delight! Who couldn't stand to do a little laundry in this atmosphere?


On another note at our 'big dinner' in Melbourne we heard a horrifying story from the doctor's wife about this little thing called laundry wars. Seems the San Francisco to Sydney segment was 23 days so there were some battles over these 14 washer and dryers on board and this lady got caught up in one. She told us that she had put her clothes in the dryer and set her watch to go back in 60 minutes to pick it up. She got there and found her clothes in a basket and very wet. Well, this British guy had taken over her dryer and she asked him why he removed her clothes. He told her that she couldn't be tying up the dryers. She stated that she set her watch and they should have been done right now. She said this guy was 2" from her face and spitting as he yelled at her. She went to her cabin and got her husband, who is very tall, and he came down to get things squared away. Meanwhile someone called the purser's office to report him and they had come up to referee the fight. They asked this guy what his cabin number was and what his name was. He wouldn't give it to them. Seems they removed him and banned him from the laundry room. The Americans won that round! Seems there are some pretty uppity British people on the ship and you can spot them a mile away. On one occasion we heard a lady on the elevator complain about this woman getting off the elevator and how she treated her rudely just because she was an American. My, these 'old' British people can be vicious, ha, ha!


All in all I think they should start listing a meeting time for the laundry room in the daily program for informative travel tips and possibly some betting action on the British vs. the rest of the passengers!


Sandy

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Down Under & Upside down!


Money is a funny thing down under! One of my favorite coins doesn't even exist, the penny, no $1 dollar bills and coins almost as big as your fist, which are only worth .20 cents each. The two dollar coin is brassy gold in color, the size of a dime and four times as thick. Their dollar is a coin about the size of a quarter and the fifty cent piece is just a little smaller the .20 cent piece. The larger the monetary value the smaller the coin and vice-versa. Go figure - It's an upside down world over here! You can buy ferry tickets or bus tickets with a twenty dollar bill and get a whole pocket full of change back, which causes you to try and figure out what to buy just to get rid of the cumbersome coins. Makes you feel like you are playing tiddlywinks. We sure do miss our US money!


We switched our dinner to 8:30 p.m. seating and now we get to bed around 2 a.m. but on a nicer note our afternoons are much more laid back. New table consist of a couple in their mid fifties from UT, Lea and Joe, our two young NY people, Morgan and Nora, and Betty and Nancy from Australia who are 88 and 90. I asked Nancy and Betty how they got to be travel partners and they said they had been good friends for a long time. They asked Candice and I how we knew each other and they about fell off their seat when we told them we were mother and daughter. Nancy said, "So you produced her?" Why that would be a yes! They still can't get over it but I figured when you get that old everybody looks younger than they really are. Betty and Nancy are getting off in Hong Kong, the rest of us are in for the long haul. We are down to 230 Americans with 1,038 Australians leading the pack.


I must report back that I went to pick up my winning photo and certificate from the photo contest and they presented it in a nice leather bound 12" x 12" photo album with the Cunard logo embossed inside. Very nice and even boxed up. Much more than just the certificate that I thought I was getting. Another photo contest is underway but I think I'll pass on this one.


Melbourne


So Melbourne was a big city. second largest in Australia. They have the world's fourth largest transportation system. Trolleys, trains, trams and buses everywhere! They will hold the Formula 1 Grand Prix in March but I can't imagine where the course will be since there are trolley tracks all over the place with the electrical wires overhead. We took the shuttle bus into the city and climbed the Tower of Remembrance, a tribute to all those who served in the wars for Australia. We climbed to the top for a good view of the city and some pictures. Right across the street was the Royal Botanical Gardens, which was spread out over quite a few acres. We noticed that the lawnmowers even have license plates assigned to them. Too funny! Very nice gardens/grounds and plenty of diversity with plants and trees from all over the world. I don't know what they feed these trees but they are huge!


Coming out of the gardens backside we crossed the street and walked the banks of the Yarra River into the city center. The college rowing team's boathouses were positioned close to the center of the city and we saw some working out on the river. It was quite the city and more college freshman initiations going on in the public squares than you care to shake a stick at. We rode the city tram all the way around the city to get a good look before making our way back to the shuttle bus stop to go back to the boat. They have some really neat buildings and they claim the tallest building south of the equator, the Eureka Skydeck. On the 88th floor they have a glass platform that overhangs the building, so you can stand out there and feel like you are suspended in the air.


That night was our big 'off-the-boat-dinner' that started with a Captain's cocktail party on the ship. Everyone was preassigned a coach number (#3) and a dinner table(#1-couldn't figure out how we rated that one!). So after two really good whiskey sours and some good hors d'oeuvres we were called out to our coach. We drove back into the city and along the way we got a personal tour and history lesson of Melbourne. When we got to the Art Gallery they had a red carpet 12' wide all the way to the building's entrance from the curb and of course the ship's photographers were there like the paparazzi, all over the place snapping and flashing their cameras. We felt like we were in Hollywood on the red carpet. They had some Aborigines playing on their didjeridoos, all painted up and some dancing around out front. The outside front wall of the art gallery was a water fountain that stretched all the way across the front entrance. Once inside we met the VP of Cunard, Peter Shank, and the Captain. Then we walked down another red carpet lined with a boy's choir (but we didn't know they were a choir until they sang for us before dinner - very good I might add) from Melbourne and there was a band playing on the stage for the evening entertainment and dancing. On through the door to an intimate darkened gallery that had tables of ten set and decked out to the hilt. The ceiling was an entire piece of artwork made out of stain glass with the last of the days light shining through it and gardens out back. The venue looked like a really ritzy wedding was going on. Chairs covered in silk and tied with white silk ribbons, large beautiful vases with white bouquets of roses and other flowers sitting about three feet off the table. Each setting had four glasses; two for wine, red and white, champagne, and water.


Now to find our table, #1. Starting at the far right of the room we found tables 4, 5, 6... but no table one. Walking to the other side of the room we found table 50, 51, 52. Where in the world was table one. More crisscrossing the room, then a question posed to a hostess, ah, table one in the corner of the room and towards the back. Yes, that is the world on an upside down, down under manner! We had a good laugh, found our name cards, sat down and introduced ourselves to our table mates. Candice and I were split up between two of the Cunard staff members and we also had a retired doctor and his wife from Virginia and another couple in their early sixties from Michigan.


Dinner was to the nines with appetizers, surf and turf (fillets), and not one but three desserts on one long plate. Chocolate Mousse with crisscross white chocolate netting surrounding it, a lemon zest tart and a fruit tart. The entire program and the venue were just awesome; nothing but the best! Definitely worth writing home about. Cunard knows how to thank their customers in first class style! Needless to say, our ship did not sail at midnight! We didn't get back to the ship until 11:30 p.m. and there were still plenty of people to get shuttled back yet.


Adelaide


Adelaide was another port we had to be shuttled into, 40 minutes, but the drives are always interesting and the surrounding suburbs are very quaint. The housing architect is always interesting to see. Adelaide is like a bedroom community with a large city plucked right down in the middle of it. After being dropped off in the city center we got our bearings and took a tram out to Glenelg Beach. The town was established in the late 1800's. The tram went all the way downtown to the beach front and town square, just a couple of steps and you were on the beach. A quite day at the beach, no crowds since it was a weekday. I saw the birds out on the sandbar pounding their feet into the sand at a really fast pace. I had never seen this before and I assumed they were searching for food, maybe trying to bring the small shells to the surface. I was so intrigued by this that I tried it myself to see if anything would rise to the top. No, nothing and it seems like they never got anything either, so I really don't know what that was all about but I gave it shot. Must be this upside down world again!


After eating gyros for lunch, we ventured down the street to have a look around the shops. I spent my money wisely - on chocolate at Haigh's Chocolates. I spotted a store in Adelaide before catching the tram out to the beach but decided, why wait when dessert was now. Haigh's was established in 1915 and they had a boutique style shop along with boxed chocolates. We picked out some truffles, solid chocolates and a cappuccino bar. Well waiting for the tram to go back to Adelaide we started sampling our goods. Oh my gosh! The rum truffles were to die for so I quickly decided that I had to buy some more of these at the Haigh's in Adelaide before we got back on the bus shuttle - and I did! I think I could live on those things! Candice thinks she can live on the dark chocolate ganaches.


We got back into Adelaide and walked around the convention center, the railway station, down to the river and headed over to the Art Gallery of Australia. Sarah you would have loved this place. Funky new art in a quite a few of the new galleries mixed with periodical artwork and some Aboriginal gallery works too. Saw the Old Parliament House and the Government House too before catching the bus back to the ship.


When we got back to the ship we were met by 1,000+ people swarming the parking lot and beach area. Seems the Queen Victoria is the largest ship ever to dock in Adelaide and it drew quite the crowd on it's maiden port stop. We were the talk of the town (along with the AC/DC concert tour that we've been running parallel with since New Zealand) and the news media helicopters were flying over head and filming while large party boats were cruising by in the water filled to the brim with people trying to get a close up look at the ship. It was like a fourth of July festival but without the fireworks. The captain kept blowing the ship's whistle for the crowd and as we sailed away people stretched all the way down the rock jetty, waving and taking pictures, just kept getting smaller and smaller by the minute. It was a sight to behold. Candice and I kind of got a tear in our eye as we sailed on past the crowd. I wished they all could have sailed away with us!


Sandy

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Sydney

Down on the "Rocks"

Circular Quay

Can you find his cell phone? His McDonald's cup is to the left.

Mrs. Macquarries' Chair in Sydney Harbor

Off the back of Queen Victoria

During our evening "cruise" (aka: a water ferry trip)

FYI: Internet connections are getting a little difficult to come by. Especially a connection that is good to upload photos. So, picture post will be few and far between for a while. Hopefully text posts will hold you guys over until then.
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Bondi Beach

Bondi Beach

Sandy and her waves

Enjoying a little coke beachside

Check out the waves

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Middle Earth

Watch out for the tricksey hobbits

Just floating down the "River Anduin"

My Legolas impression, see link

http://onethousandleaves.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/legolas09.jpg

"Get off the road!"

The North Coast on Miramar Pennisula

Leaving Middle Earth
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Christchurch and Waimak Jet Boating

They must put steroids in the water.

Times a'tickin'

Whole boat to ourselves

Pictures don't do it justice

A little action shot
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Two Days - Two Beaches!


Our first day in Sydney was packed to the gills with one landmark after another.  My first glimpse of the city was at daybreak as we were sailing into the harbor.  What a great start to the day!  I don't think I need to tell you that Candice missed this magical moment but I guess she can watch us sail away at 6:00 p.m. tomorrow night.  Now I'm no early bird but I do know how to get up and catch the good stuff while it's happening. 

After breakfast we first hit "The Rocks," because that's where the first settlers landed, and saw the oldest building in town, the Cadman's Cottage, which was built in 1816 by John Cadman.  He was convicted and banished for life to New South Wales for stealing a horse.  Only 1,000 people survived the trip from England on 11 boats in 1788.  Most only stole a couple loaves of bread and some had committed no crime at all but volunteers were in short supply.  Seems this entire area was later a caldron of disease and the seedier side of town but as usual if you wait long enough the property values come back up.  Today it is far from disease infested and property is selling for a pretty penny.

Then we headed up to the Harbor Bridge and took a walk out to the middle for some awesome pictures.  This is the largest steel bridge in the world, 8 lanes of traffic and was built in 1932.  People at that time mocked it as 'the coathanger' but today they are proud to call it their own iconic symbol.  Seems the people also didn't care for the Opera House either when it was opened in 1973.  We walked all the way around the Quay, pronounced 'key,' to get a couple of great pictures.  Then up to Mrs. Macquirres Chair overlooking the outer post of harbor.  Then we traversed out to the center of town for some shopping, hopped the train/subway out to Bondi Junction and caught the bus out to Bondi Beach.  Bondi is just a feast for the eyes.  Very large circular beach with big white waves crashing in various sequences across the half mile beach or better.  Surfers were out in full force and Tony Hawke is in town for a skateboard event on the beach.  It was definitely time for a Coke and a smile!

Ten hours of walking and touring a city this big is enough to make your feet pulsate even at rest.   So after making our way back to the ship for some dinner, we told our room stewart that we were going back out for some more punishment, that we didn't get enough.  He laughed but we braced ourselves for our next venture.  We walked over to the ferry terminal and took the 9 p.m. ferry over to Darling Harbor.  Got some really good night shots of the city skyline from the water.  We walked around the Darling Harbor checking out the nightlife and worked our way back to ship by foot.  This whole city is one big mecca for nightlife and restaurants.  Reminded me of one continuous Downtown Disney but with no Mickey Mouse.

Sydney is  great place to visit and they claim it to be the best harbor in the world.  I use to think they just said that because of the landmarks and the icons that surround it but it really is the best harbor because it winds and twist and juts and recedes for miles which makes it a great geographical area.  Every point, cove and harbor throughout the waterway has a 'New York City' siting right next to it.  Just when you think there can't be another financial center, shopping center or city center, another one pops up around the corner.  This place is huge and covers more miles than I care to walk!

Our second day was a little more slower paced than the first.  Today we took the ferry over to Manly Beach and checked out the area.  Manly Beach is just about as fantastic as Bondi.  It has a big sweeping beach too but just a half mile long.  Wonderful surf, plenty of surfers and swimmers out even though the dangerous undertow flags were flying.   We also got to see a sailboat regatta taking place on our way to and from Manly out in the harbor between the Sydney Harbour Heads.  We were camera free today since our batteries were drained so we didn't get any pictures of Manly.  Back to the ship for lunch and listening to the Aborigines play the didjeridoo with techno music behind it on the pier.  Jack, you would have loved it.  Seems some of the magic of the moment escaped once we saw him talking on his cell phone!  Ha, ha!  Out for a little shopping and internet time and we set sail at 6 p.m. tonight.  Let's hope the place we have picked out has faster uploads on the pictures than McDonald's.

Until our next port, 

Sandy
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Now entering the city limits of Middle Earth, Population a couple of Geeks


No trip to New Zealand would be complete without a Lord of the Rings tour. How very Dwight of me, I know! (I hope you guys are getting all of my Office references, if not sorry.) I had done my homework as soon as the trip was booked. Bound to get the best/most LOTR in a day tour, I found Rover Tours on the internet. They did not disappoint. We had a very good tour guide, Laura. She had just the right amount of LORT knowledge without becoming one of "those" kind of fans. I'm sure she has had to deal with those herself. 

Oh, story of us getting off the boat. In a word: ridiculous! I think my biggest complaint about this cruise is we never get off the ship when we are scheduled to. When the itinerary list an eight am embarkation, I expect to get off at eight am. We were literary the first two people off the ship at a remarkable time of 8:40. I was a little irate, especially since we had booked this LOTR tour and were to be meeting them on the pier at 8:15. But we got off, and the tour people didn't seem to be held up. 

So the tour began. Along the way we got to listen to LOTR soundtrack in the Aragorn van, all a little corny, but I loved it. I mean we were on a LOTR tour, why not go all the way with it. This was basically my mindset the entire day (as I staged pictures that corresponded to the film and donned elf ears to strike a pose as Legolas). Also there were nine of us, so we were a fellowship for the day. 

Our first stop was on the Mount Victoria belt, for the "Get off the road" scene. Out in the park, practically away from the city, it really felt like we were out in the Shire. Saw the hill the hobbits fell down and found the mushrooms and where the ring-wriath was atop waiting atop a hill. The other people on the tour actually set the scene up by climbing to the top of the hill and forming a horse figure. It was hilarious.

We headed off to "Wellyhood" on Miramar peninsula. This is where a majority of the actors (saw Orlando Bloom's and LIv Tyler's "homes") lived during filming and Peter Jackson currently lives. The town of "Bree" was also filmed out here, but no distinguishing features were there to really tell. Down the street to the Weta Workshop, the company that did all the weaponry, prosthetics, armor, miniatures, and digital post production for the films. If you've watched the extended DVD's 12 hours of special features, its all of those people. LOTR really launched this company; they've worked on a lot of major motion pictures, including Avatar. For Avatar, they had to upgrade their servers and computer systems. They now have the fourth largest computer network in the world. Peter Jackson's studios and soundstages are right down the road. The Dead Marshes and sections of Pelennor Fields and Minas Tirith were filmed in the car park lined with a five story blue screen.

We drove out of the city for the rest of the locations, including the River Anduin (close ups of the fellowship after leaving the elves), Rivendell, the gardens at Isengard (Gandalf and Sarumon before he goes all crazy), and the quarry where Helm's Deep and Minas Tirith were built and filmed.

Took all kinds of crazy photos, will post the good/goofy ones of me trying to act. It was a hoot. At the beginning of the tour, Laura asked if we had anyone who hadn't seen the movies. I looked at Sandy and said basically. The extent of what she has seen is what she sees while walking through the room while I'm watching it. Oh and the scene Glenn Beck uses of Gandalf saying "You shall not pass." But she was a good sport. I told her from the beginning, I claimed one of the NZ ports for LOTR and I would pay for her tour. We really got to see a lot in the little time we had in Wellington, I would fully recommend Rover Tours to anyone wanting to see some LOTR locations. And lunch was provided and was delish!

First two off the ship, fifth and sixth from the last to get back on. It was a cram-packed day.

For Flight of the Concords fans, Bret and Jermaine hail from this wonderful town of Wellington. They were in town, but we didn't see them. 

Back on the boat...
Some of you may know that my personal bubble can tend to be quite large, i.e. don't get really close to me. This mostly pertains to the general public or when I am frustrated. Well, these British people have no bubble at all. In the queues, they push right up against you. I about had a panic attack while waiting for the chocolate fondue. I made Sandy switch me spots, but here comes the lady right after me. Is one foot of space asking too much?

A lot of people are getting off here in Sydney. Hopefully, we will be replacing them with some younger Aussies on this segment.

crj

We are on Circular Quay right now, outside of the McDonald's. They have free-internet, but it is kind of slow. Will be posting pictures as soon as possible. Until then!
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The Land of Kiwis and Phil from Amazing Race


After Auckland, I had made an executive decision. We were going to do something a little more adventurous in Christchurch, NZ. I had had enough of looking around. I needed a little adrenaline rush. After perusing the guidebooks we picked up in Auckland, we had an Alpine Jet Boat tour booked.

The Waimak River was a little outside of Christchurch, but the ride was nice. We went through the Canterbury Plains, which is the largest area of flat land in New Zealand. This then became their main farm and grazing lands. The area had fleeting moments of Arkansas, scenically, aside from all of the sheep and hedges (think Harry Potter Goblet of Fire Triwizard hedges). After a little while, we had arrived at the foot of the NZ Southern Alps. The TranzAlpine train travels along the river we were headed to; the scenic train ride is ranked 6th in the world of train trips.

Got to the boat house. But first we had a pit stop at the restroom, next to some sheep. They had their picture taken. Everyone has heard that south of the equator toilets flush in the opposite directions. Well, every toilet that I had come across didn't really flush. They just kind of filled up and emptied, without a swirl motion. First time in the southern hemisphere, I had to see this phenomenon. So, the sink had a plug. After filling it up, I can confirm that it swirls in the opposite direction.

Enough toilet humor, back to the real story. The river ride was amazing. Thought it would be a little cold due to it being overcast, but the sun popped out 2/3's up the river. Sandy bundled up for the trip though. The water was so aqua blue, the pictures don't do it justice. The river bends were huge; they basically circled back around 300 degrees. The main river channel was along the outer edges along the bluffs, but water trickled over the vast inner rock fields. Kind of like sections of the Buffalo, but tripled in size. The 360 Hamilton spins were fun, especially with a private tour. No one was in the boat with us, so we went sliding around our empty row of seats. It was really good to get out and do something exciting, get away from the old people city tours.

We were away from the ship all day, so lunch was on our own. What did we eat? The real question is what can you find all around the world? Pringles and Coca-Cola. We sat in Cathedral Square eating our snack. And of course there were birds, so we had to feed the birds. At least here we (okay, Sandy) wasn't told to stop by security guards. I can't remember if we told you that this happened in San Fran.   

We did do a little shopping in Christchurch too. I had to get my kiwi souvenirs. Love those flightless birds. Didn't get to see one; they are rarely seen in the wild. 

crj
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